SUSPENSION - Terminology

Glossary of terms used in the suspension on the mini. The Mini has consistently more than proven its capability in competition with very limited and cost-effective modifications based on the standard equipment fitted. Having first ensured the bodyshell (in reality little more than a complex bracket to hold suspension and driver securely in place) is well sorted out by removing all cruddy or rotten metalwork and into something like straight, square and strong we, maximising suspension stability and geometry pays dividends in the enjoyment that is driving a Mini. Understanding what the individual ingredients are helps in pursuing what you want from the experience. Smooth Mover Good, reliable, and consistent handling is dependent on a number of factors. At this stage, we’re concerned with clapped out or badly adjusted suspension components. Stiff, seized, partially seized or slack, sloppy, worn out suspension components will cause inconsistent, wayward, confusing and – more important

SUSPENSION - Basic Priorities

Suspension - Basic priorities for improved suspension performance. Having studied the 'Suspension - Terminology' article you should now have a ‘job description’ understanding of previously possibly un-comprehended words associated with suspension control. Now - what to do with it? The first thing we need to establish is an order of priority before distributing hard-earned 'beer vouchers' in all directions. Fortunately, this is a good deal less complicated than is generally believed. Despite the five main factors that control the front suspension geometry – kingpin inclination, caster angle, camber angle, track, and bump-steer – we are only really able to alter three of those easily. King-pin inclination is non-adjustable, as it’s a feature of where the swivel-pins are mounted on the hub at the factory. It will alter as other adjustments are made, but we can do nothing easily about correcting/optimising it independently, as these are fixed in position on the swivel hub.

SUSPENSION GEOMETRY - Buy the right parts to do the job correctly

It is baffling to see so many companies advertising mini suspension geometry parts in kits that are a waste of time as they rarely complete the job on either the front or the rear.

Engine transplants - Ancillary parts

Engine mountings are a whizz to fit as the Mini ones fit straight onto any of the other units. Just remove the Metro/AA/1300GT ones and swop the mounts over from the Mini unit. If they’re split, fit new ones, they’re cheap.

Terminology -
BBU - Big Bore Unit
SBU - Small Bore Unit

NOTE: This information covers transplanting large-bore engine units into small-bore engined Minis. For further information for exact differences between pre-A+ and A+ units, see relevant separate article.

Engine mountings and steady bars.
Engine mountings are a whizz to fit as the Mini ones fit straight onto any of the other units. Just remove the Metro/AA/1300GT ones and swop the mounts over from the Mini unit. If they’re split, fit new ones, they’re cheap. If using the AA/1300GT unit - it's advisable to cut off the 'wings' on the front plate that carried the engine mounts on the radiator end.

KNOW YOUR MINI TYPE

This is to help you understand which mini you own from a spare parts point of view. Officially There were only Mk1/Mk2 and Mk3 on sales brochures but the Mk4 was introduced by Keith Dodd in 1976 to help people understand the main parts changes. From here we eventually got to MK7

What mini do you own-Make your Mark from this list Confused what mini you own,...

Wheels & tyres - Bigger wheel fitment consideration

Predominantly 13-inchers, but 12s as well, the main thrust of the questions being 'what do I need to do?'

This subject is a regular visitor to the message board and 'Knowledge' section of Mini Magazine for whom I write - fitting bigger wheels. Predominantly 13-inchers, but 12s as well, the main thrust of the questions being 'what do I need to do?' along with 'which wheel arch extensions will I need?' The answer has always been somewhat 'clipped' purely because of the space availability issues both in the magazine and on the message board, so something a little more detailed was required. Although the Mini suspension was designed around the use of 10-inch wheels with cross-ply tyres, a quick dash through history reveals that fitment of these bigger wheel sizes isn't a recent, 'modern' application.

C-AJJ4008 ADJUSTABLE REAR ANTI-ROLL BAR FITTING INSTRUCTIONS

Jack rear of car up, and place securely on axle stands, positioned to allow maximum access to rear subframe/rear radius arms area. Remove rear exhaust hanger to exhaust clamp or un-hook rubber loop on late type cars. Using suitable saw, cut off centralising tab from bottom center of subframe rear cross member. Remove rear wheels and brake drums. Remove upper most and rear most brake back plate to radius arm nuts and bolts.

C-STR631 & 632 Offset bottom arm bushes

Aftermarket bushes for suspension and subframes have been a topic of conversation for some time now. Many folk have become obsessed about fitting brightly coloured plastic (polyurethane) bushes in place of any rubber bush they can find in the belief they will improve the performance of whatever bush has been replaced. Whilst it is true that polyurethane is harder wearing - and therefore longer lasting - than rubber in many applications it is not necessarily the best material for the application every time. Polyurethane has greater abrasion resistance and is stiffer for a similar hardness, is much cheaper to produce (and therefore sells at lower cost) and can be produced in a wide variety of gaudy colours.

Historical Article - October 1993 - Converting WET to DRY suspension

Converting WET to DRY suspension The following is a practical way of converting your wet suspension to dry, acknowledging the fact that with enough skill, enterprise and facilities...

Historical Article-August 1994- 8-Port Final Set Up

8-Port Final Set Up The final setting up of the Mini was accomplished over the Easter holiday and in April I played around with the different Konis and ended up with Koni sports as supplied new, set soft on the rear, with the Monte specials set fairly hard on the front to stop the tramping effect (throttle steer)....

Historical Article-August 1994- 8-Port Final Set Up

8-Port Final Set Up The final setting up of the Mini was accomplished over the Easter holiday and in April I played around with the different Konis and ended up with Koni sports as supplied new, set soft on the rear, with the Monte specials set fairly hard on the front to stop the tramping effect (throttle steer)....

Historical Article-August 1994-Whiffin's Clubman

This is the first clubman we have featured in Mini Tech News, although I can't think why. This example belongs to Mini Spares staffer Paul Whiffin, who has obviously spent a great deal of time and money getting if right. I can't help thinking that the front end looks a bit like my old BMW 3 series. (we're allowed to say BMW now. Bernd would approve. He used to own a mini, you know).

Historical Article-August 1994-Whiffin's Clubman

This is the first clubman we have featured in Mini Tech News, although I can't think why. This example belongs to Mini Spares staffer Paul Whiffin, who has obviously spent a great deal of time and money getting if right. I can't help thinking that the front end looks a bit like my old BMW 3 series. (we're allowed to say BMW now. Bernd would approve. He used to own a mini, you know).